HOUSEBOAT

WEATHER REPORT:  35degrees at 8am.  So we missed the frost by a nose!  Sunny and Bright. A bundle up day!

My husband, John, was concerned I posted too much truth in THE HOOD –

Houseboat Cedar Key

“You’ll scare people” he said.

I don’t think so but today’s post should make it clear we live in a lovely, safe neighborhood.

Back of the House

Today’s post is about the house we live in and why we call it HOUSEBOAT. Blame that on my dear Cousin Dee.

She said: “You two are like Cary Grant and Sophia Loren in that movie Houseboat.”

I forget why they are  sharing the houseboat (anybody?)

But of course they find romance and romantic complications in the process. And in that and so many ways, Dee is spot on. Our home: The Oliver House is shaped like a houseboat – one long rectangle – one side of bedrooms and bath, the other a long stretch of Living room, Dining Room and Kitchen and instead of wood decking, we have Spanish Tile.

Side View of Front Porch with fenced area for dogs

Our top deck would be the front screened porch

and the aft would be our backyard – with a shed and a cement platform were we placed a table and chairs for open air activities.

The property is wide, and shaded by many Live Oak trees, dripping with Spanish Moss.

Morning Coffee and Evening Cocktails

There is a tangerine tree,

Only a couple left on the tree after last night's harvest!

ready to be plucked, a qumquat bush (what do you do with qumquats? – ah I learned yesterday – when they are orange, you pluck them and eat them whole. no peeling).

By the back door is a massive rosemary bush (planning on sticking a few stalks into some vinegar), and parsley growing right outside the back door and I plan on adding a few more herbs as well. The avocado pit is sitting on the kitchen window sill – if it roots and leaves, I’ll plant it. Wouldn’t that be cool to have on the property!

Deep Steps makes an easier climb for Buck's weary bones.

The steps on the front and back are deep, painted pink cement. 

The deepness make it possible for Bucks to go out by himself, giving him a platform to get his back legs on the same step as his front legs — What a revelation – DEEP STEPS make all the difference.

Boyd and Tom, the home owners, have done a marvelous job of outfitting it.

Length of the house -from Kitchen looking front

There are a tons of books and some games and lots of attractive baskets and containers for gathering our stuff in the right spots — the keys in a brass dish, the cameras in a basket by the door.  Plus they have every dish you could want, including wonderful old fashioned champagne glasses — 1930’s style.  (what is it about the ’30’s and me?  just love it)

John and Bucks snuggle on the cushioned bed

Surprisingly, John and I fit nicely in the double bed.  I never would have guessed it, having slept in a California King for 20 plus years. But it works. . . for the most part.  Particularly after we got a cushy  4 inch foam topper, dissolving the hardness of the mattress that made us feel our bones – but no more!

The one bathroom is just fine – with good storage.  PLUS they have painted the place in such interesting colors.

Cozy Bath

The ceiling is a deep, midnight blue, stretching the length of the house and echoed on the door inserts.

The bathoom is a rich rust and the bedrooms are soothing greens and rose.

You remember your grandmother’s french provincial furniture? That was white, with wavy corners and gold trim? The kind you can’t give away today? Well, it’s here – bureaus, sidetables, Dining Table and chairs – working just nicely, thank you.

One of several Bureaus

Our neighbor bought their house with everything in it and that included the same type of furniture. She painted it back which totally works too.

John Ironing on top of the Washer-Dryer

The Laundry room is opposite the kitchen, at the back of the house. It’s clean, bright and has everything you need, including a small iron board for using on top of the washer dryer  -good job John.

 And the kitchen has everything one needs with all the niceties too!

Lovely Kitchen

Our Desk by the front door - command central

So call it a houseboat or a honeymoon cottage or whatever you like. For the next three months we call it home: happily so.

I may be doing myself a disservice, giving these accolades – so let me say for the record – Tom and Boyd – we want first dibs on winter season rental!.  While some people only want waterfront, we are finding the advantages to this interior spot as well.

Besides the lovely interior – the outdoor space brings new beings and beauty everyday. On New Year’s Day, the Robins swarmed – but they moved on. We pulled out a table and chairs to make an outdoor space in the back

John sorting out the fishing equipment

Then the butterflies came – some monarchs and some yellow ones and this one that seems a mix inbetween.

one of several butterflies visiting us

Last night’s frost warning caused us to pull off the tangerines from the tree – now I’ve got a pile of them to create with – and preserve some way or another.

Time to make preserves

As I write this, the muted foghorn keeps pulling my attention. Will have to find out where that is coming from.

Calling all tangerine recipes.  Enjoy your day. xo Laura

MASTER LLOYD COLLINS

Today’s Weather Report: Bright Sun, No Clouds. Crisp, Clear, 40 Degrees, Sharp Northern Wind.  Glove Weather!

When visiting Mo, to buy smoked mullet dip (like smoked whitefish and better) and shrimp that tasted so sweet I felt I’d never before tasted a true shrimp –  John learned about the oldest fishing guide in Cedar Key.

“Lloyd Collins – and his brother – they can be found at the Island Place Motel over by the dock. His wife runs the place.”

Chris Collins

So we went to find Lloyd and met Chris, sitting behind the desk, his round head and merriment smile pegging him to have been a handful in elementary school. Chris is Lloyd’s nephew – or some other relation – who considers Lloyd a father figure.

“Yep, Lloyd will give you a call an come over an have a talk with you. A long talk. Lloyd always has a lot to say and I learn from him every day.” Chris’s eyes glowed with deep appreciation, love and respect. Standing 8 feet away, I could feel his embrace of the man.

Barbara and Bob Hudson

On New Year’s Eve at the Island Hotel, we sat across from Bob and Barbara Hudson, who had also hired Lloyd to guide them when they first came to Cedar Key. “He knows all the holes.” Bob confirmed, pulling out his phone and called Lloyd a right then, on New Years Eve, telling him to call us.

And he did, on New Years Day and we met him at the motel the next day at noon, where we listened for two hours.

John with Lloyd and his friend Michael at the Island Place Motel

Lloyd is a large man – many of the locals are – and from what Lloyd says, he had a hard childhood, living in a houseboat where the tide came into the boat and the rain came through the roof, yet mama somehow gave them three meals a day: They had oatmeal for breakfast and cornmeal for lunch and nomeal for dinner (da-dum-bump)

Michael adn Lloyd - ol' pals

In a matter of minutes we learned about Lloyd having to leave school at 10 to go to work – about his sister’s husband, Eckart – whom they called “yella legs” because his legs had a yellow cast, and Eckart’s brother whom they called Greasy, because he slicked back his hair with lard. – and how they were the two best guides every – how they could navigate with only a compass and find their way out to the small buoy – way out in the middle of the gulf – marking where the sea turtles traveled “Cause them sea turtles are good eating – even though they banned them”

His sister – who died of pancreatic cancer – is revered in Llyod’s eyes – she raised her nephew, who requested to stay with “Aunt Rosie” and when she was about to pass on, and she knew she’d be leaving her earthly goods to be divided among 7,  she told Lloyd: “Now, whatever you get, pay yer bills”.  And he did, then got himself a nice boat – a 21 footer.

Lloyd's Other Sister, who works at the motel

We learned that Lloyd’s father got hurt when he was young – crushed spinal disc – which is why he had to go to work so young. But in later years, his father became a master mechanic – could fix anything. But then Lloyd told the story about his truck, which he bought new but it wasn’t working right. So his father helped him tinker with the motor but Lloyd insisted he set the timing by ear – “can’t do that by numbers – it has to have the right sound” which he did and hasn’t had a speck of trouble with it since.

Brother and Sister

“I always tell my kin- Get every license you can – for whatever it is.” Lloyd advised, and then told the multi-tiered story of getting his captain’s licenses – how someone along the process took him in hand and made him study , telling him: “if you pass this, you owe me nothing. If you fail, you owe me the $1600”. He passed. And went on to get his Masters – for 100 miles – then 200 miles and I forget how many tons.

We first talked in the reception area of the motel, then moved to the back porch – overlooking the pool and gulf.  They were shaking their heads at the windsurfer – “as there weren’t much wind and some mighty cold water.”

Chris - Preparing the Hibisucs for rooting

While we talked, Chris came out and was stripping down Hibiscus leaves, scraping the bottom bark off the branch and making an cut into it before planting it in some virmiculite -“when they root, I’ll replant them – one per spot, and by next year it will be as big as the bush over there.” It was a 5 foot high, full bush.  Damn, I love it here!

A good gardener

We learned about the Eastern shoreline – where we plan to go on Sat if the weather and tides cooperate – how there is so much rock there “Rock all the way down to Tampa” and nothing much has changed over the years – “except airboats who cruise over the grasses, killing ’em”

“But the rocks are everywhere and oysters grow right on’em”

The oyster bars are a problem in the area – they have grown so much, filling in the gaps where a boat can get through. “You gotta know these waters, especially these days”

He talked about how the old timers used to take the seaweed from the shore and hoe it into their gardens and come fall, grow the greenest, best tasting greens you ever had.  He now lives on the mainland shores “where nothing grows. Heck, that soil is so poor, you have to stand on a 100 pound sack of fertilizer to raise an umbrella” (da-dum-bump) – Me thinks he has a 1000 of such jokes.

Lloyd - holding court

We got green cooking recipes and learned about Ronnie Taylor, who built on his daddy’s success and made his money in construction in Jacksonville and bought up property in Cedar Key – he’s behind Nature Coast Realty.  Lloyd’s wife Patti – who is also in real estate – thinks he may be overextended in this market – having bought during the rise in prices. And Lloyd says people don’t like Ronnie because he made good for himself.  I guess that is a universal truth of human beings.

But the best moments with Lloyd began when he spoke about how he spent  his youth listening to the older folks, learning their stories, understanding their persepctive – something he did  instinctively even when his friends chided him for doing so.

That led to a story about his newphew, who had begun recording Lloyd’s stories, until he suddenly died.

Which led to sharing about THE HEART CODE – and the sense of something inside you, that knows what you need to do.

Lloyd heard that and became more emotional, his eyes welling up as he spoke about that something inside, the knowledge

Master Lloyd Collins

inside that you can’t explain but you know you have. And how he feels it about the wind, about the tides, about the currents. How he can tell, by the direction of the wind, the smell of it, the strength of it, the wet of it, as to whether the storm will come or pass them by.

There is so much more to learn from Lloyd Collins and his family.

We really look forward to doing so. xo Laura

THE ‘HOOD’

Good Morning 2012.  And it certainly started out nice in Cedar Key!

I arose at 7 –  Walked out the back door and felt a sudden scuttle – off  the ground, into the trees, bouncing from tree to tree – a wave of fluttering black/grey birds and a ton more chirping than we’d every heard.  It didn’t quite register at first – until I took Daisy out the front door for a walk and I saw them again – Hundreds – Skittering off the ground into the air – the whir of wings, the darkened sky, the flash of red – ROBINS!  Hundreds of Robins arriving from their northern trek, landing in Cedar Key. It was surreal and kept up all morning long.

Street Signs - Known by few

12409 Live Oak St. - That's a LIVE OAK in front

The only other large cluster of Robins I ever saw was a couple of years back, late fall, at the NH High School – Dozens of them flying in formation around the field, like they were practicing for the southern journey.

I never thought about where they actually went.  Some part of me imagined they just went to Maryland – or North Carolina.  But now I see how far they go –  hungry and excited – flitting from tree to tree, calling to each other, wheeling enmasse – enchanting!

OUR NEIGHBORHOOD is an excellent mix of charming to shabby – and not the chic way.

Front Porch Door

The Neighborhood Name

There is a sign over the screened porch door – that we thought was just a cute name for the house.

But no!  it is the actual name of the “hood.”

Back in 1861 – a Rail Road was built – from what is now Jacksonville to Cedar Key – to carry fresh fish to the northeastern cities.

Rail Road Trestle Path Entrance Sigh

At the beginning of our street, there is a walking path that follows the former train tracks – out and over the water to the commercial part of the island. The former trestle supports are still visible at the end of the path. We take this walk every day with the dogs. There is always something new to see and many of the plants are labeled.

Daisy Loves the Path

Giant Slash Pines -used for Turpentine

End of the Trail Sunset Seat

It’s curious that we live next to a trestle in New Hope and now in Cedar Key as well.

John and Jennifer in our New Hope Garden

The way the area got its name is because the boys who worked the train would grab their girl just before the train was leaving and say:

“Kiss me quick” before being swept away out-of-town – or so the story goes.

The collection of houses in these five streets of KISS ME QUICK are quirky and diverse. At the eastern end, there is a clam processing plant. Kinda stinky but far enough away from us. At the other end is the  Trestle path, and across the “highway” 29 is a terrific restaurant –

 

Remains of the Day when there was a trestle

BLUE DESERT

Blue Desert - 2 blocks from home!

where we went to celebrate John’s Birthday. The owner cooks everything from scratch, so one must be prepared to wait  and boy was it worth it. Delicious seafood soup. A Calamari  / Mushroom / Orzo that was exquisite.  Our landlord Boyd had given us a gift certificate to introduce us to the place. Glad he did. We’ll be back, often.

(No restaurant in New Hope compares)

Happy Birthday Johnny

quirky and cozy - just our style

The walls are covered

First of many visits, we're sure

In Our HOOD, most of the homes are sweet, well-tended Florida style cottages with an appeal that grows as you look at them. But a few were boarded up and some – well –

they initially scared us, surrounded by junk or seemingly abandoned.

Ulp! What's Up with This House around the corner?

But as you get to know people, they fill in the stories.

One junk house is actually a result of flooding – the woman had turned off her water and gone away. Then the town did something with the street  pipes and when the town restored the area’s water, they turned on her water as well — flooding her house (she wasn’t there).  While some neighbors have offered to haul away the ruined crap that now sits in the front, she declined, waiting to settle with the insurance company.  OK, that made me feel better.  It wasn’t a lack of caring.

Side view of the house across from trailer

Another house – across the street with this spectacular view  – and for sale! – is owned by a large family- so someone or other uses it.

Until yesterday, it had a lot of debris around it until they had a burn and cleaned it up a bit. The construction trailer on the water side (along with the construction trailers claiming they do everything) doesn’t look used anymore. Hard times for construction I guess. The FOR SALE sign says 7 lots. Don’t quite know what that all entails.  But I entertain myself, dreaming  up architectural schemes for the sheer pleasure of it. Another house on the street looks deserted but I saw a car parked in front of it today.

boarded up house?

Now for the sweet homes. Miss Eva is a violin teacher. She inherited this home from her mother, while her family mostly lives in Atlanta

.Miss Eva – Next Door to Us.

MO the fish man

Mo Lives on the corner. His house is surrounded by thick green grass.

Mo has been fishing for over 60 years. He makes the best smoked mullet dip in the county – I’ve heard tell – and my taste buds will not deny it.

Note the white boots. They seem to be the fishing di-rigor here!  I’ve seen them hanging on the iron work of other houses, drying out.

Across the street – there are several nice houses – mostly doublewides enclosed and expanded.

I forgot about the doublewide - empty - next door!

Across the Street

Mo and Libby's house

Then we met Lonna and Martin Dickens – walking dogs, of course.

They bought a corner house on the water diagonal to us – it was a mess when they bought it but the views! Well, check it out for yourself!

Lonna and Martin's view

Martin and Lynn Dickens Waterfront Home

As Lonna and Martin work in Gainsville (50 miles east), they have invited us to use their dock and canoe during the week.

Marsha and Chick live behind us – they also have waterfront. They are the artists in the area – sculpture and mosaic artists, respectively.

We really couldn’t be happier. The dogs are fitting in and thriving and so are we. Next Up: HOUSEBOAT!  Love to all. xo Laura

Marsha and Chicks house behind us. (waterfront)

BACKGROUND and FIRST FISHING

Our friend Becky sent a note asking what prompted this adventure. 

Good question. Over the years, John has become more and more disinclined for winter. 

John - New Hope Winter 2011

It really cramps his style. He likes to get out and do useful things. The cold, despite his Chicago upbringing, is no longer pleasurable.  So every year we book a couple weeks trip to someplace relatively warm. 

We had a blast one year in California with the Malamuts – who live in

Malamuts w/John on Malibu Beach

Thousand Oaks.

Oak Branch at Malamuts

And saw our former neighbor and friend Harald.

Harald and Laura in San Clemente

 

And checked out Rodeo Drive!

Name that famous Hotel!

Mike collects antique cars and we went to the Barrett Jackson auto auction in Arizona with them – that was a fascinating experience!

Mikes Warehouse of Antique Autos

We also hop down to Sarasota Fl – to enjoy friends Laura and Don – former Glen Rock Girl, former Texas-Colorado boy who met and married later in life and relish the palm trees in their “pretty little city by the sea”

Lovebirds Laura and Don

And we also pop down to Naples to visit Dad and Maryanne.

Dad and Maryanne in Naples 2011

 

Last year-, we flew into Ft. Lauderdale and hitched up with HS pals Matt Lawskowski and Dyan Bernstein – boating for an afternoon –

Matt and Laura 2011

Dyan loving the ride!

and inbetween we explored . . . discovering Matlashay and Pine Island, which really suited our quest for nature and quiet – neither of which Naples nor Sarasota delivers.

Artist Gallery - Matlashay

Bokelia - Pine Island FL

So I looked around for a pine island rental but what we wanted was already booked up. Then I remembered my girlfriend Ellen

Ellen!

(we walk dogs together and have become good friends), had a friend who owned a home in Cedar Key.  Where in gods name was that? — Well, it was exactly along the FL coast I’ve always wanted to explore.  When you take off from Sarasota by plane, headed for Atlanta, they fly over this very territory and I’d push my cheeks against the window to see the vast, empty land. HEAVEN I thought and schemed at how I might see it.  So Ellen called Boyd who said the place was free for the season – having been rented for the past 5 years by a Maine Couple (they moved across the street to a bay front house). So Oliver Cottage was ours, at a price we could afford for three months!  Wow. We made that decision in September, giving us three months to get things together. 

Dog Walking along Delaware

Almost immediately, my other dog walking girlfriend, Liz, who’s mother had edited my book the year before, asked if her parent’s could rent my house for a month so they didn’t have to stay in her basement. Wow. That’s a thumbs up sign if I ever saw one.  So now we were in a race to not only prepare ourselves for the journey but prepare the house for renters.  Yikes.  There’s a lot to do when that’s the gig!  Cleaning drawers, closets, baseboards, refrigerators!  Stowing away papers, clothes and valuables. Having the chairs fixed.  Sorting out the shed. Big stuff, little stuff – all needing tending because we were not just locking up and going. 

Dr Bello & John before the Operation

We were supposed to leave the 11th of Dec, with renters arriving the 13th – but we were delayed  10 days due to John’s Hermia operation (what a difference that has made to his back issue as well).  But finally we were able to hang the sign on the door and skedaddle!

Thank You Dee, for the glorious Sign!

And that’s the backstory of how we got to Cedar Key

THURSDAY MORNING, DEC 29th,  I was puttering around the kitchen, prepping food for the freezer (we did a major shop on Wed – that story later) still in my pajamas with a sweatshirt and apron while John enjoyed spotting the birds along with his coffee, while we waited to hear from Captain Voyles.

We met the Captain on the 26th – he was finishing up his fishing tour and we were heading out to find clams. Thursday was his only open day but he first had to have an MRI up in Gainsville for his knee. Something had popped.  But he called around 11 to say all was well and let’s meet up at the boat launch at 1.  Yee Ha – first fishing gig.

Birds and Coffee

John and Captain Voyles

We took Daisy with us, figuring she’d be a natural on a boat — but she balked at walking down the metal plank to get to the boat.  Whoop! Whoop! “Danger Will Robinson”  you could see in her eyes. I had to lead her down – then once in the boat, she positively cowered – at the motor, at the movement, at the sway.

Of course she got the hang of it – but it was fascinating to see her try to figure it out as fast as she could.

Flat Bottom Boating

Off we roared in Captain Voyles flat bottom boat, heading out to the large island called ATSENA OTIE KEY – which was the original Cedar Key – its name meaning Cedar in the native indian language Back then, the main island was called WAY KEY . After a hurricane devastation sometime back, Way Key became Cedar Key and Atsena was deserted

Sophie - er - Laura!

We were heading to the back waters – where the trout and redfish winter and the water depth is 3-4 inches at the high tide, hence, the flat bottom boat.  We stopped and fished along the way – but nothing was happening. It was clear Captain Voyles knew where to go, and as we got further away from the island, swinging south from Cedar Key, we were zooming around one small bird sanctuary island and oyster shell strewn patches of land after another.

oyster patches and island wilderness

At times it looked as if he was going to drive us into and over a patch of shell-land, when he’d swerve to the right or left and jut through a narrow passage between the small mounds. We kept marveling at the undisturbed wilderness!

He pointed out that the islands were off-limits beyond the tide level. 

Pushing off the Island -one of many many

When we were fishing, we drifted close to one sandy island and Daisy jumped out! So we had to take care with her on that – the shell mounds would rip her paws to shreds.  But the birds who gathered on the mounds made her mouth water.

We learned the other day that the birds who migrate to this area were late –  so we will have plenty more to see in the coming months.

pelicans hanging

On Thursday we saw blue and white herons, oyster catchers with a long orange bill, some kind of small bird who fly together – weaving through the sky in a patch of waving white – until they turn their grey side toward us and momentarily disappear.  Cormorants and Pelicans gather and gaggle around stationary objects. As we love birdwatching, our eyes were feasting.

Every fishing hole we tried, no luck. We did see some action in one area and Captain Voyles tried the hand cast net to get the Mullet he suspected were there — Mullet, we find out, are vegetarian and had no interest in the shrimp on my line.  — it was interesting to see the handcasting net.

Kate - AKA Fashionplate

I think my sister Katie (and her daughter Rhapsody) should fashion it into her next Ball Gown for her annual Art House Ball, with colored crinolines underneath. She’s made a previous gown out of gumdrops and another with hostess ink snowball cupcakes.

With no luck on the fish, Captain Voyles offered to show us round the island, water side.  That was great! 

Under the 29 Bridge

Winding around the island, we cut through under the bridge of rt 29. Voyles pointed out the claming incubators and boats. 

Seedingly Clam Incubator

When the GVT banned net fishing (too many people were using giant – catch everything – nets –

clamming Boat

circling passagways from island to island – and it was not good for the fish population) they then created the clamming industry – leasing out 2 acres to fishermen to seed the clams and harvest them – I think he said it takes two years to grow for harvesting – half of that time being incubated to a certain size before seeding them in the bay beds.  He said the clammers are constantly seeding and harvesting, and clam leases now cost about 5k, if you can find someone selling one – and they have to be worked of you lose your lease.

Someones dock

He also took us out to a group of pillars sticking out of the water. He told us they used to have planks on them and before we used chemical fertilizers, those planks would build up bird droppings which would be scraped off and sold for fertilizers.  Nature inspired ingenuity.

He had many more stories — about the many snakes on snake Island “That’s a nasty place”

Cormorant Hotel

And the island were a famous pirate supposedly buried treasure – “I go there after any major storm to see what I can find”

So fun and so much more to explore. He said the tides in the winter are lower – so we  plan to schedule a trip on a new or full moon, when the tides will be high enough to  get into the back waters –  needs 4 inches of water.

Glad we are here for a while to have the time to plan that.

Dock by the Boat Launch

Captain Voyles is also a school teacher on Cedar Key – and the range of subjects he has to teach is

Home Sweet Home for Someone

astounding. He then told us of a project he’d applied to get a grant for – a project we’d first learned about from Don Wood – about farming Talapia in tanks with recirculating the water  over greens growing on top of the tanks – one effluence feeds the other. Voyles wants to do this to teach the kids self sustenance and to donate the fish and greens to the food bank.  We promised to hook him up with our friend to compare notes on how to do it.What a great day and great person to spend it with! 

zoom

Quieter Boating around Cedar Key

Crabber Heading for the Dock - b/c of boat size, can't slow down

what's out there?

As we drove home, I got a taste for a Richard Hahn Bloody Mary – made with clamato. It was yummy and our evening meal of steak and grilled veggies and local sautéed greens could not have been better!     

Next Topic: The HOOD! xo Laura

On our Porch, After First Fishing

 

Initial Doldrums Turn Bright!

We had an interesting day on the 25th and a wonderful day on the 26th

Happy Holidays Island Style

After arriving the 24th evening, we went into town on the 25th for an early supper at the Island Hotel. Good Food! Nice People. So Islandy – this whole place. Then drove all the streets to get oriented.  I really can’t walk too far with my leg – which was totally stressed out by the final weeks of prep – but it’s getting better with each day of rest.

By the time we got home on the 25th John’s mood had turned sour.  What had we done? 

After touring the island he wondered  why we were in this little hut with no view, no dock and surrounded by some hovels.  His discomfort brought me down.

In the morning it was not much different.  He said he had to get it out and not to take it personally. 

Laura at ANNIES

So I brushed if off my shoulders – literally and figuratively – and hoped it was just the dark before the dawn,the contraction before the birth,the scary moments in your new dorm room before you venture forth and find it’s all good, just as you hoped.

After a few hours of organizing and webbing, we dressed and ventured forth -to a most delightful, attitude changing afternoon. With dogs in tow, we stopped for lunch at Annies, which is on the back bay side of the island, across the road and up a couple blocks from us, where the tides go out and leave you high and dry – In the picture, the tide is on its way in – to rise 3 -4 feet only.

Then we headed into town, which was much closer than we thought. 

It would be easy to bike into town.

View from ANNIES

Stopping in at our realtors, we asked some questions about the area – and she was terrific.

Turns out, one of the locals who fishes for mullet and makes the best smoked mullet – by everyone’s opinion – lives two doors over from us. MO and Libby- and he’s our realtors cousin. Knock Knock – Hello Mo- got fish?

And the cool sculptures and mosaics around town were done by Chick and Marsha Schwartz – our other neighbors.

And there is a dock around the corner we can go out on.  And where the nice little beaches and fishing areas you can access – besides the town beach – which was quite lovely – and we are free to picnic, watch the sunset and fish and thow the ball for Daisy.  Apparently there is not a leash law or busy body policing. Or maybe they don’t say anything because our dog is very clearly under our control – and the spell of the ball!.  Very Lovely

Love this building

We also found out about  another highly recommended restaurant – the Island House – first floor of the yacht club.

Saw Grass Club Mosaic Door

Locals rave about their chef – quality home cooking (like we had at the Island Hotel)

So we’ll be going there for New Year’s Eve.

Welcome!

Stopping by the Chamber of Commerce Welcome Center was an equal delight – with info and maps and fishing guides galore.

Also found out a published author lives on the island, writing about a niece and her Aunt — so much like mine, I think, and will find out, and she is a NYT best seller.  WILL be reading her book and then contacting her.

After a lovely afternoon of all this, we were driving back to our now cozy home, in cool funkyville, and stopped to ask a man getting into his truck with a boat attached for recommendations for fresh local clams.  He turns out to be a fishing guide and a school teacher so we are going to try to book him on Thursday – for John’s Birthday.

 

Then I asked John how much he budgeted for fishing trips and he said: about 10 trips.  Yee Hah! I’m so looking forward to learning the ropes from the locals

Chick Schwartz Sculpture

Then we drove a block past our street to find the produce lady — who also sells clams and oysters  – and just over the bridge is the clam hatchery and marina who sells clams, grouper, shrimp, stone crab claws — all just a couple blocks away from home.

Marsha Schwartz Mosaic

What a turn around in our attitude – and what a delicious meals of clams, stone crab, salad and pasta (from a mix – and quite good)

We then hung out on the front porch of “Oliver Cottage” very happy indeed.

By later evening the wind had turned and rain was heading our way.

As I sit writing this morning, the rain had stopped and the wind-swaying trees were making a lovely melody.

Now it’s pouring and I do feel I’m on an island – Caribbean and laid back.

We may go to the big shops an hour away on this rainy day – although I’d be just as happy hanging about, reading and walking inbetween the raindrops. xoxoxo

Dinner is Served

A JOURNEY BEGUN

HEADING OUT: NEW HOPE TO STAUNTON VA

Our departure was delayed on the 21st of Dec.  As I was packing our 1994 F150, and running out of space, 

John came home with an alternate vehicle – a super big Dodge Ram – with more space than we could fill.

But it didn’t check out so we passed, reconfigured our stuff and loaded up the dogs,

Arriving in Staunton VA that night 11:30, home of John’s daughter & family.

A good nights sleep on a comfy new bed in their new apartment over the barn – with a glorious moose head mounted on the wall. – the head bleached white. A work of art in its own right.

The family – Laura, Scott, Zach and Sarah, along with their dogs – Tack, Kona, Sally and cats Tommy and Timmy – seemed well and were very busy, as usual, regardless of the holiday . .

Duck Hunting in the Morning – got 5 — defeathered and breasted and ready to cook – they had made a duck stew for us (which we missed due to our delay) and we mixed the leftovers into the morning eggs.

Going to Work – hi ho hi ho – an ever-growing farm and looming college fees keep one going.

Popping off to see the Dr, – Scott had a skin tag on his tongue

Preparing to go north for the holiday – shopping, laundry, packing, oh yes, and band practice for Zack. They gave us a bunch of gift cards to aid us on our journey (NICE and VERY USEFUL GIFT!).

Zach and John - displaying their morning catch

Sarah - all grown up!

Bucks took full advantage of the morning delay – Sleeping in a good long while!

We took off around 1 – heading south to Lexington, then east across the Blue Ridge Mountains – switchbacks that reminded us of Costa Rica – and Italy – without the guard rails

We were headed for Greensboro NC, where my friend Carol lives, but she was away to see family.

As a general rule, we try to travel back roads rather than highways.

So much to see.  Here’s a few snaps. (I felt like LISA in MY COUSIN VINNY – taking my snaps as we rolled on through).

Our bikes became the frame of our road shots.

More Later – xo Laura & John

Headed toward Lexington from Staunton